Fashion and Modernity – Gill Morgan

Fashion isn’t universal, it isnt around at all times

Connotations of appearance, style.

RubΓ©n Toledo 2003, fashion machine 

Modernisation- refers to the processes of sciencetific

Modernity – the way that modernisation infiltrates everyday life and permeates sensibilities 
Georg simmell 1903 – ‘the metropolis and mental life’ discusses the indivuals position in the big city urban life and his physiological coping

Sonia Delauney – artist, works strongly with textiles, transportation, 
Fragmentation and 

Clothes original made for the rich 
Charles Frederick worth 1882,
Went to France and designed for the empress, first to label garments, 
20s reflect modernism,  
Society allowed women to do what hatchet want, ditched the chaperones 
Start of handbags, 
1910- skirt suits
1920- hemline moved up, lost the corset and the hourglass silhouette, freedom of movement, exposing the back was better than the breast or legs.
Emancipation of women
Bias cut- sports wear
Coco Chanel- changing clothes for men into for women, androgenist, the LBD, costume jewellery, use of different materials- wool and knitted fabrics  
^2014 collection, sports effecting fashion, 100 years on and still similar
Mariano fortuny – pleated gowns, didn’t need to fold it, throw it, roll it in the suitcase
Fashion magazine, newspaper – bringing the garments to the consumer, vogue 1920s 
People could copy what they saw on the catwalk and make it themselves
Mass media, blogs, tv, 
Increase in single shops and large conglomerates, 
SS14/15 – moderity 

Liberate us from traditional 

Every new fashion is a change from the old fashion, being liberated
Always seeking new, because we don’t want old
Vintage as a trend, new and individuals, trendy not old fashioned 

Modernity
Universal 
Feminism
Desire
Freedom
Expressive 
Cultural
Break from tradition
Fortuny – pleated dresses
Uniform – all dressing similar
Consumerism 
Depersonalisation 
Fragmentation
Liberation – from dresses/corsets, emancipation 
Erational change- they didn’t have to change 
Charles Frederick Worth
Coco channel
Mariano 
Sonia
Schiaparelli 
Caillot sister
Veoney 
Sensibilities – 
Authority – 

Post modernist
Deconstruction
Revival
Alexander McQueen
Vivienne Westwood
Hussein Chalayan
Leigh Bowery
Anti-fashion
Avant Garde – something you wouldn’t wear done the street

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