Print Screening

Today we would finally have our screens to get on with some print screening of our patterns that we made a few weeks ago.

However, not all the screens were done so we actually had to do some of the screens in class. I actually didn’t mind that because they meant that I could see how it worked. I have always wondered how it is done because I had a few made for me in schools and college before. 

  

To start it off, I had to lay out all my prints on the screen, on the right side, so I laid them on top and could see them. I had to tape them to the screen so that they didn’t move. They also had to be cut evenly so that none of the paper overlapped. 

The screens were laid on the glass and the top was put on and clicked into place. A button was pleased and a vacuum was created to get rid of all the air. The glass was turned so that we could see all the patterns. After that we had to get out the room, ultraviolet light shines on the patterns and gets rid of the black sections (that’s why we had to make the black lines really dark, so it is harder for light to get though). The light is on for 10 minutes and then turned off. 

After that, the glass the glass is turned and the air is released. The screens had to be quickly taken out and rinsed with water. Then a power washer was used to shower the screen to make the pattern reveal. 

  

After that the screen is ready to use!

 

Most of my patterns turned out well. There was one where the line was too small for it to work but I still kind of shows. I’m really happy with the other ones though. 

I got chance to catch up with all the others that already has their screens. Using the dyed materials from before, I printed my patterns onto it. I had done print screening before so it wasn’t really new to me. 

The dye we were using was discharge paste so it was hard to see if it was actually printed or not when you lifted it. Because of that I was fairly sure most of my prints didn’t turn out. 

   

     

However, I didn’t actually know but they had to be put under heat for the bleach to take effect. For this we used the heat press to put them in. We weren’t really meant to be doing this because they created some really smelly fumes. I had never used the heat press before so I was really wary about using it, but after Helen showed me what to do I wasn’t too bad at it. Some of the prints tired out really great, my favourite is the cloud print because on the pink cotton it looks like candy floss. The silk one didn’t turn out as well as I thought it would, all the other patterns on silk came out really bright but mine didn’t do a lot.

         

Moschino

For our essay, we had to pick a designer to mainly talk about. To show our knowledge and why we chose them we had to make a presentation on them. The title of my essay is ‘Postmodern art and design critiqued notions of originality and embraced consumer culture (or “kitsch”). Respond to this statement using examples’. The designer I chose for this is Moschino. I thought that it would be a good choice because of the humour and originality seen in his work.

  I chose this essay because I was really interested in the anti fashion side. The thing is really like is that the work is usually quite random and unique compared to the Elegant work of modernity side. One of the favourite themes is retro, I like to dress this way myself so I thought that picking something that I like would help.

 I decided to star with a mood board of different shows from Moschino, that way I can show a large range of that he goes for. I chose quite a few of his earlier works, like the spongebob, McDonald’s and Barbie fashion shows.  I also thought they were good examples of the consumer culture. The bottom right outfit was influenced by Olive Oyl, it was introduced when he brought out a new fragrance in 1988. The one next to it is the same outfit, however it made a new reappearance for the fairytale show that they did in 2006. 
  
Moschino really likes his quotes, they show what he thinks and feels about himself and other people. He likes to parody the people that buy the Moschino label. He likes to break free from the conventional fashion and destroy the myth that fashion must be original and serial. I really like the idea of this because it is exactly what I believe in when it comes to fashion. 

  

Moschino made clothes for people that like to use clothes as a form of self expression, he wanted people to project their personality through their clothing. He doesn’t want you to hide, he wants everyone to see it. 

  
Moschino Jean opened in 1986. I was the start of a store where people could buy the Moschino brand. I started as just jeans, as the name says, but moved onto other products. In 2008 it’s name changed to Love Moschino. The original audience for Love Moschino is younger people because the clothing is more afforable. I also uses print colours and patterns that would catch the eye of someone younger. You can buy from Asos.

 Moschino Cheap and Chic is another way of buying Moschino products. It debut in the A/W 1988/89 show of the same name. It is very much like the other shop except it is more high end. The clothing is more expensive and it looks it. It is audiences for slight older people than Love Moschino. It can be bought from Harrods.
 As well as clothing, Moschino is known for making wacky fragrances. The bottom on it the first one made. The top one is styled off of Olive Oyl. It was the reason that she was used in the 1988 fashion show, as seen earlier one in the slideshow. The right one is this most recent one. It debut in the recent ‘Mind the Bear’ show. It is meant to look like a cuddly teddy. It is wearing an iconic Moschino tshirt that says ‘this is not a Moschino toy’, showing the usual irony that Moschino likes to use. The morbid thing about it is that to use it you have to pull its head off. 

 Moschino likes to use whatever materials he wants to create anything wearable. The most iconic is ironic slogans on shirts. He uses phrases like ‘you wanted a Moschino t-shirt so here it is’, labelling the item of clothing, or even making a bag shaped like a shirt that says ‘this is not a Moschino t-shirt’. I find this amusing because really it is but it also isn’t. He has also made a cashmere jacket reading ‘rich bitch’, a t-shirt sporting a tv tuned to ‘Chanel no 5’ – which chanel sued, an organic bikini which was imbedded with grass seeds then watered so the grass grew through the fabric and a dress with a bow made of florist ribbon.

 Moschino really liked helping charity and was well known for his charity work. He helped raise funds for HIV- positive children. He once made a dress out of condoms to help raise funded, then he chose the current ambassador, Fiori Crespi, to model it. After he died they opened up a Franco Moschino Foundation where they earn money with him in mind. 

More dying

Today, we were meant to be screen printing, however some of the screens didn’t work so we had to try something different instead. 

We had lots of different dyes that we could test out on our fabric that we dyed last week. That way we can have examples of the different types and on different colours. 

 

These are the different dyes. There is: clear discharge paste, illuminating acid discharge and procen dye paste. The clear discharge paste works like bleach, it takes any colour out. The illuminating acid discharge works like hair dye, the dye looks s bright colour to start off with, but when heated up it will change. The procen dye works like dye and can be put on anything. 

We started off with one stripe on each of the materials, but we had to keep swapping the dye because some could only be used on certain types of material. 

 The material had to pinned to the bottom paper so that it didn’t move. To do the stripes, I had to fold a piece of paper over the areas that we didn’t want to dye. I had to make sure that it was fully taped down because the paper would more than likely move or stick to the screen when pulled off. 

   

    

After we had one go at a stripe, we decided to try another one. That way we could layer up the stripes and see how they work together.  

   

   

 

Textiles

A couple of weeks ago I started a new support module in textiles. Throughout this module I will be learning different ways to dye and create patterns.

To start it all off this module, we had a go at drawing different patterns. To get inspiration we took a trip to the library, where we had to take out a couple of books with patterns that we like. I chose Indian Textile Prints and 19th Century European Textiles. I really liked these books because the patterns were pretty, however the European textile prints looked quite difficult to redraw but I really wanted to try.





The Indian print book was much simpler and I thought it would add a nice contrast. It also involved prints like Paisley so I was quite excited to reprint them.





All the drawings went in our sketchbooks, that way they are all together and easier to photocopy to create more. After we had plenty of prints, we had to 6 that we would like to expose on a screen.



Once we had finished our prints, we moved on to some dying. We were given a textile pack which included some cotton, wool and silk pieces. To start out the dying, we had a test of different times. We cut an edge off one of our cotton squares and tied a piece of string to it for dipping in the dye. The piece was dampened in warm water first then had to be dropped and left in the dye for 1 minute. After that it was rinsed and the end was cut to add to my sample. After that I had to dye it for 2 more minutes so that it added up to 3 minutes overall. Then 2 more minutes for 5 minutes. Then 7 minutes. Then 9 minutes. Then only 1 more minute so it rounded up to 10 minutes. 

After that we dyed the rest of our samples. We could leave them in for as long as we wanted because the longer it would be, the more intense colour it would have. The cotton had the choice of scarlet, orange and blue. And the wool and silk had yellow and purple.

Coco Crampton

The minority’s gallery 

Donkey rides, were book cases that held penguin books but now case lights

Mulberry tree within the studio, urban decay and environments 

Swings, leisure spaces, fairgrounds 

Passion wagon 

 8ft quilt, 

Lapdog, chair sitting on breeze blocks 

Interested in forms and ideas, 

Adolfo Luce, fire hoods of 50/60s 

Oversized magnets 

Sky rocket, reverent that communal making, the rainbow colours represent free and loving 

Woven textiles in her final show

Creeper, cork tiles creeping

hmmm, forms of communication, a place were people might come to meet and chat 

Bedding all interweaves 

Two person show

Steel structure, resembling dream catches 

Denim and tin cans, saw in a magazine on how to make a stool, first time she used it

Cassius clay

Prints,

denim folk art reference 

Steel sheet and big bolts

Handles on romance and other girls also common tongue 

Title has 3 different parts, because of the 3 different parts of the gallery 

Multiply interpretations, interchangeable 

Handle on romance – strong accociation, handle being functional, romance- participation, social, 

And other girls – strong feminine accociation, needle work and such, female designers, nod towards them, Irene grey – influence for the denim screen 

Also common tongue – language, conversation, generic, fast food over fine dining, seats facing intentionally, 

Tin cans and demon again, can grow outwards or upwards 

Stockpiling, factory made and packaged

Durability, more desirable and high end, like fashion 

Banquet style takes, rainbow candles burned down at different levels, show the heated conversation 





Similar items in the other room but create s more private atmosphere, the chairs are facing different ways with shows the conversation, seats all the same colour, close knit friends that wear the same colours





Next room has booths, romantic setting, candles aren’t burned, 

Rug and denim show the cafe setting of it

Barbecue ish table, people circle round it 

Mounted wall table and seats, was functional but now ornamental. 



 

Source material – found materials, not starting from scratch, denim from a charity show near her in Norwich, found some nice and different details. 

Colour palette – likes pure colour, Impure colours, strong intensity, no 1 colour, the situations the room are in, orange seats next to the green nature outside, firery

Took a month to get the show together, woven mat was finished the day the gallery was opened, ceramic were made over a year, doesn’t have access to the studio all the time

Refers to herself as an artist, uses many different materials